Rubha a' Mhail, Mala Bholsa and Loch Mhurchaidh Loop

This is a long, remote coastal-and-moorland circuit on the north-east side of Islay, linking the headland of Rubha a’ Mhail with the low summit of Mala Bholsa and the inland waters around Loch Mhurchaidh. At roughly 20 km / 12.4 miles with about 400 m / 1,310 ft of ascent, it fits a solid medium day for experienced walkers, but the difficulty can rise quickly if the ground is wet, the wind is strong, or visibility drops. The route combines rough coastal walking, boggy moor, faint or intermittent trods, and a few steeper grassy pulls rather than any technical scrambling. The nearest practical start is by Bunnahabhain Distillery, Bunnahabhain, Port Askaig, Isle of Islay PA46 7RP, with the usual access point for the Rubha a’ Mhail side of the walk beginning near the small roadside parking area above the distillery road. (walkhighlands.co.uk)

The opening section is usually the easiest to follow. From the Bunnahabhain side, a track heads out across open ground toward Rubha a’ Mhail, also known as Rhuvaal, the most northerly point on Islay. The out-and-back walk to the lighthouse alone is about 13.3 km / 8.25 miles with 250 m / 820 ft of ascent, which helps show how committing the full loop becomes once Mala Bholsa and Loch Mhurchaidh are added. Expect grassy track at first, then increasingly wet and indistinct terrain, with peat hags and soft patches that can slow progress more than the map distance suggests. (walkhighlands.co.uk)

Rubha a’ Mhail is one of the key landmarks of the day. The headland projects into the Sound of Islay and gives wide views toward Jura, with the lighthouse providing a clear focal point in an otherwise wild and open coastal landscape. This stretch is especially exposed to Atlantic weather and sea winds, so even on a calm forecast it is worth preparing for stronger gusts near the cliffs and points. Keep well back from cliff edges, particularly in wet grass or if the ground is undercut. Seals and otters are regularly mentioned around the coast here, and seabirds are a major part of the experience, especially in windy conditions when they are working the updrafts off the shore. (walkhighlands.co.uk)

Terrain and route character

After the lighthouse section, the loop’s character changes from coastal outing to more serious cross-country navigation. Mala Bholsa is only about 127 m / 417 ft high, but height is deceptive here; the challenge comes from rough footing, wet ground, and the need to hold a line across open country rather than from steep climbing alone. Geograph notes the hill as a rounded landmark with visible sea caves on its coastal side, and older route records in the area show it being linked with Bunnahabhain and inland lochs as part of a larger circular walk. (mudandroutes.com)

The climb onto or around Mala Bholsa is likely to feel like the middle crux of the day. Gradients are generally moderate, but the surface can be lumpy, heathery, and waterlogged. In clear weather, this higher ground gives a better sense of the shape of north Islay: indented coastline, open moor, and a chain of lochs set back from the sea. In poor visibility, however, the same ground can become confusing, with few obvious handrails. For planning and navigation, this is the kind of route where careful pre-loading of the line on HiiKER is worthwhile, especially for the inland transition between the coast and Loch Mhurchaidh.

Loch Mhurchaidh brings a quieter, more