Maol nan Uan, Mainnir nam Fiadh and Dun da Ghaoithe Loop

This is one of Mull’s finest big hill circuits: a broad, airy round over Maol nan Uan, Mainnir nam Fiadh and Dùn da Ghaoithe, with roughly 17 km / 10.6 miles of walking and about 800 m / 2,625 ft of ascent. Although often graded medium, it feels more serious than the label suggests because the route combines a long climb, exposed high ground, pathless sections, and the kind of wind and mist that can make navigation much harder than the map suggests. The high point of Dùn da Ghaoithe is about 766 m / 2,513 ft, and the route is best thought of as a full mountain day rather than a casual loop. (walkhighlands.co.uk)

The walk starts above Craignure on the Isle of Mull, using the approach near Upper Achnacroish, just inland from the Craignure ferry terminal and the A849. That is the nearest clear road access point and the most useful landmark for planning. From Craignure, the route heads up estate tracks toward the transmitter installations on Maol nan Uan before leaving the built track network for open hill ground. (walkhighlands.co.uk)

For anyone planning the day, expect a route with three distinct characters: a steep track ascent, a wild ridge traverse, and a rougher descent that can feel slow underfoot. The first half is straightforward in clear weather, but once beyond the upper mast the walk becomes much more of a mountain outing, with fewer obvious trods and a greater need to judge line, slope and visibility carefully. HiiKER is the navigation tool to have loaded before setting out, especially if low cloud is forecast.

Getting to the start

By car, the simplest approach is to drive to Craignure, the main ferry port on Mull, then continue a short distance to the road leading toward Upper Achnacroish, where the hill track begins. Parking arrangements can vary, so it is worth checking local restrictions and avoiding blocking estate access or gates. The start is essentially the upland access above Craignure rather than a remote standalone trailhead. (walkhighlands.co.uk)

By public transport, the most practical route is to travel to Oban, take the CalMac ferry to Craignure, and then walk from the ferry terminal to the start, or connect with local bus services on Mull where timings suit. Official and transport-planning sources note that Craignure is Mull’s main ferry gateway and that bus services connect with many ferry arrivals and departures, though schedules should always be checked close to travel day because island transport can change seasonally or operationally. (calmac.co.uk)

The ascent to Maol nan Uan

The opening section climbs on estate and service tracks, first through lower ground and then more steeply uphill toward the transmitter station on Maol nan Uan. This part is not the wildest-looking section of the day, but it gains height efficiently and gives increasingly wide views back over the Sound of Mull. On a clear day, the outlook quickly opens toward the mainland and across the water to Duart Castle, one of the most striking landmarks in the area. (ukhillwalking.com)

Because the track zigzags uphill, the gradient is manageable rather than brutally direct, but it is still a sustained climb. This is where many walkers underestimate the route: the footing is easy, so it is tempting to go too fast early on. Saving energy matters, because the mountain section only really begins after the second mast. Wind can also be funnelled across these open slopes, and even in fair weather the upper track can feel surprisingly exposed. (walkhighlands.co.uk)

The masts on Maol nan Uan are prominent and impossible to miss. They are useful visual markers on ascent, but they also mark the transition from engineered access track to more natural hill terrain. Once past them, the route feels much less like a service road walk and much more like a proper ridge day. (walkhighlands.co.uk)

Ridge walking over Mainnir nam Fiadh and Dùn da Ghaoithe

Beyond the upper mast, the route leaves the track and crosses open grassy ground. The ridge broadens at first, with tiny