Slios Dubh, Spidean nan Clach, Beinn Airigh Charr and Loch Kernsary Loop

This is a long, rough hill circuit in the Poolewe area of Wester Ross that links the rounded bulk of Slios Dubh with the higher ground of Spidean nan Clach and Beinn Airigh Charr before returning by Loch Kernsary. At around 23 km / 14.3 miles with roughly 900 m / 2,950 ft of ascent, it sits in that awkward middle ground where the mileage is substantial, the terrain is often more demanding than the numbers suggest, and the day can feel much bigger if the ground is wet, visibility is poor, or the tops are windy. Although the overall difficulty is often described as medium, it is better approached as a full mountain day requiring solid fitness, steady pacing, and confident route-finding.

The walk starts near Poolewe village, most commonly from the car park on the north side of the bridge over the River Ewe, close to Poolewe village centre and the signed start for the Loch Kernsary path. That is the clearest nearby landmark and the usual practical access point for this area. Sources describing the Loch Kernsary circuit place the start in Poolewe by the bridge, school, or village-side parking just off the A832. (scotland.org.uk)

The opening section is usually the gentlest part of the day, following estate tracks and path toward Loch Kernsary. This early ground gives you time to settle in before the climbing begins, and it also offers some of the best lower-level views back across Poolewe, Loch Ewe, and toward the wider Loch Maree basin. If conditions are damp, expect soft ground and muddy patches even before the steeper hill sections begin. Once beyond the easier approach, the route becomes much more serious, with a sustained climb onto open hillside and then onto broad, exposed upland terrain where the line of travel matters far more than it does on the lower lochside paths.

Terrain and what the day feels like

The ascent onto Slios Dubh tends to feel steady rather than technical, but it is still a meaningful climb. With 900 m / 2,950 ft of total ascent spread across a long loop, the effort comes less from any single brutally steep pull and more from the cumulative effect of repeated rises, rough ground, and the need to keep moving efficiently over open country. On paper, 23 km / 14.3 miles may not sound extreme, but in Wester Ross that distance often includes peat, heather, wet hollows, uneven rock, and sections where there is little sign of a built path.

Higher up, the character changes from approach walking to mountain travel. The ridge and summit areas around Spidean nan Clach and Beinn Airigh Charr are broad, open, and exposed rather than narrow and scrambling in nature. Spidean nan Clach is identified as a subsidiary summit of Beinn Airigh Charr, and Beinn Airigh Charr itself rises above the northern side of Loch Maree near Poolewe. (mudandroutes.com) The challenge here is usually not hands-on climbing but navigation, especially in mist when broad shoulders and shallow cols can make it easy to drift off line. If you are planning this route, it is worth studying the terrain carefully in HiiKER beforehand and noting escape options before committing to the higher ground.

The descent back toward Loch Kernsary can feel deceptively long. After the tops, the return is not simply a quick drop to the car; there is still a substantial amount of ground to cover, and tired legs can make boggy or pathless sections feel slow. In poor weather, this latter part of the route can be the section where concentration slips, so it is worth keeping enough food, water, and spare layers in reserve for the final third of the day.

Landmarks, scenery, and natural character

This route sits in one of the most dramatic landscapes in the northwest Highlands. Beinn Airigh Charr lies in Wester Ross near Poolewe and above Loch Maree, an area known for remote mountains, steep-sided glens, lochs, and a strong sense of openness. (en.wikipedia.org) From the higher ground, the standout visual anchors are usually Loch Maree, the surrounding hill groups, and the intricate pattern of smaller lochs and moorland around Loch Kernsary. Loch Kernsary itself lies southeast of Poolewe and forms part of a wider loch-studded upland landscape.